Judging by the buzz at the annual Expo West organic trade show, regenerative agriculture is where it’s at,¹ and it’s heartening to finally see a tidal change for the better. According to data presented at the show, conventional food brands lost more than $19 billion in revenue between 2009 and 2014, as consumers have become increasingly aware of the many problems associated with conventional food and farming.

Projections suggest the natural and organic sector may reach $107.7 billion in sales by next year. However, traditional organics have developed a number of increasingly pressing problems, thanks to manipulation by large food companies. In recent years, many trusted organic brands have been swallowed up by multinational corporations that, by and large, lack a historical interest in organic farming.

As a result, organic standards have been significantly watered down, in some cases to the point of no longer fulfilling even the most basic criteria. Case in point: The acceptance of hydroponics for organic certification. According to organic regulations, an organic grower’s crop rotation plan must maintain or improve soil organic matter, yet hydroponics grow food without any soil at all. Without soil, how can their operations improve soil health?

Regenerative agriculture is a return to what organic was originally all about — the protection and rebuilding of topsoil and ecological biodiversity. Unfortunately, Big Food is acting quickly this time around. Companies are already trying to cash in on the burgeoning trend, and it becomes rather problematic when junk food is paraded as flagship products for regenerative agriculture.

Junk Food Now ‘Supporting Regenerative Farming Practices’

Cookies and other processed snacks do not suddenly become health foods simply because they’re made with ingredients that weren’t doused with toxic chemicals.

Take Annie’s (a division of General Mills), for example, which touts “advancing regenerative farming practices” with a limited edition organic Mac & Cheese and organic Bunny Grahams, made with ingredients grown according to “regenerative farming practices.”² The products will be exclusively sold at Sprouts Farmers Market this spring. According to Carla Vernon, Annie’s president:

“As part of the food industry, our biggest opportunity for impact is at the farm level, where we have a critical role to play in advancing regenerative practices that generate positive impact. At Annie’s, we recognize the urgency of this, and we are more committed than ever to champion projects, big and small, to preserve the planet for generations to come.

Through these new limited edition products and direct-farm partnerships, we are showing consumers that food choices matter and can make a positive impact on the planet.”

There’s a range of farming practices that could be referred to as “regenerative,” even though they’re only slightly different from or better than conventional, chemical farming.

The fact that General Mills is partnering with Ben & Jerry’s to promote their brands with regenerative agriculture for highly processed junk food like mac n’ cheese, cookies and CAFO ice cream is a strange path forward.³ While it will take farmers, businesses and customers to advance regenerative practices, you have to be skeptical with this alliance of junk food products to promote regenerative agriculture.

Ben & Jerry’s has been one of the worst offenders when it comes to environmental pollution, supporting CAFOs while knowingly harming the environment and maximizing profits. These products are as likely to regenerate diabetes as they are to regenerate the soil.

What most Americans really need is to start eating real food. That’s what’s going to save the planet and improve their health. Pesticide avoidance will only get you so far. It’s an important part, for sure, but if you continue eating a diet chockful of processed foods, even if they’re organic and regeneratively grown, your health is still going to suffer from nutritional imbalances.

Then there’s McDonald’s, which recently announced it is replacing frozen beef with fresh, cooked-to-order beef patties for two of the items on its burger menu⁴ — as if avoiding freezing will make that CAFO beef any healthier. What’s next? Regeneratively grown french fries?

The beef is still coming from factory farms where the cattle are given drugs and antibiotics to quell disease and encourage growth. As a result, such meat is more prone to be contaminated with drug-resistant pathogens and has a poorer nutritional profile compared to organic grass fed beef. Aside from improving flavor, the shift to fresh beef is really inconsequential in terms of overall food quality and nutrition.

Regenerative Organic Certification In the Works

There are a number of separate efforts to create standards and certifications for regenerative agriculture, and unless close attention is paid, there’s the risk of these standards being usurped by big business right from the start. Among the contenders is the Regenerative Organic Alliance, led by the Rodale Institute, the clothing company Patagonia, and Dr. Bronner’s. Its regenerative organic certification was launched at Expo West earlier this month. According to Politico:⁵

“Details of the Regenerative Organic Certification [ROC] are still fluid, but the basic idea is that USDA organic certification would be the baseline and requirements would be added on from there. The certification would also expand beyond agricultural practices to include animal welfare and worker standards …

Standards for ROC are still in the works, and a number of companies are going to be taking part in a pilot to test various systems. DanoneWave … has pledged to have its Vega One Organic line and its Horizon Organic grass fed offerings take part in the pilot. A number of other brands are also “allies” of the concept, including Maple Hill Creamery, Justin’s … and Patagonia Provisions (Patagonia’s food line).”