In Hawai‘i, Restoring Kava Helps Sustain Native Food Culture
February 24, 2025 | Source: Civil Eats | by Naoki Nitta
Last fall, Ava Taesali opened Kava Queen, O‘ahu’s only brick-and-mortar kava bar, after three years of building a loyal following for this traditional beverage at farmers’ markets in Honolulu. Located in the repurposed Waialua Sugar Mill, former home of a sugar industry giant, the establishment is surrounded by a mix of local businesses that includes a yoga studio, a surf shop, and a sewing collective. The eclectic space reflects the North Shore’s laid-back, community vibe—a perfect backdrop for sipping the Polynesian brew. “Kava is meant to bring people together,” said Taesali.
Earthy, bitter, and tingly on the tongue, kava—‘awa in Hawaiian—calms the body without dulling the brain. “The only thing it numbs is your mouth,” said Taesali, a Samoan American whose first name, aptly, means kava in Samoan.
Kava, also known as Piper methysticum, is a perennial shrub with large, heart-shaped leaves. Its fibrous root, when crushed and steeped in water and massaged to release its essence, produces a cloudy, cool infusion traditionally served in an apu, or coconut-shell cup. Consumed in the South Pacific for at least 2,000 years for pleasure, relaxation, and in cultural and spiritual ceremonies, the drink holds deep significance in both Hawaiian mythology and Polynesian identity.