This spring more than two million plants of wild leek or ramps will be harvested and consumed by individuals, ramp festivals, and especially the culinary industry. Ramps are one of the first harbingers of spring in the forest and for wild food enthusiasts a special treat. Recent demand and consumption of ramps has increased dramatically due to their new culinary cache creating threats to plant populations and disturbance to the forests in which they reside.

Ramps (Allium tricoccum and A.tricoccum var. burdickii) are  members of the allium or onion family. These two species  grow in the rich mesic woods in the eastern half of the United States from Canada and New England  to Minnesota, Michigan, south to Missouri,  and east  to Tennessee and North Carolina and occasionally as far south as the mountains of Georgia.  These woodland habitats  tend to be populated by other fragile spring ephemerals such as Trilliums, Bloodroot, Dutchman’s Breeches, and many other notable spring wildflowers. Ramps grow in small to fairly large patches where they may be locally common and sometimes abundant. The leaves are deep green, the above ground leaf blade about five inches long, tapering to a thin reddish purple stalk (petiole), the remainder underground, whitish, and ending in small white elongated bulb up to inch in length .  A. tricoccum var burdickii is similar with slightly smaller flowers (and therefore smaller seed production) and a white stem, although color is not a sure identifier of the species. They are reputed to be somewhat milder. The foliage of cultivated lily of the valley, superficially resembles ramps.

The entire plant smells garlic-like. Wild leeks posses a unique taste like a cross between a strong scallion, garlic, and leek with nuances not found elsewhere, hence their culinary appeal. Both the bulb and leaf can be eaten although the leaf has a somewhat more delicate flavor.  The leaves tend to toughen later in the season. The bulbs can be consumed fresh and are quite potent. Like all spring ephemerals the foliage begins to die back as the weather becomes hotter, typically in late June or July.

Ramps are becoming vulnerable  to over harvesting, especially due to increased demand by the culinary trade.  In 2011 it is estimated at least 2 million plants will be harvested.

You may see them offered for sale in specialty food stores, health food stores, farm stores, farmer’s markets, on the internet and on restaurant menus. Recommendations are not to purchase whole plants and bulbs.

In recent years:

Large Increase in media attention has brought unprecedented demand

upon this plant especially in the culinary industry

Increase in  commercial and individual harvesting activities

Increase in commercial and retail sales

Negative Results:

Habitat disturbance

Increase vulnerability to invasive plants

Over harvesting

In some cases whole clumps wiped out

Reduced sustainability of the plant

Reduced ability of the plant to reproduce; long recovery time after harvesting

Increased susceptibility because of other conditions such as climate change and overgrazing

Recommendations:

Consumers

Harvest leaves only

Harvest not more than 20% of leaves from any single clump

Do not purchase whole plants from markets

Do not order dishes containing ramp bulbs

Encourage your restaurant or store to sell leaves only

Speak up

Chefs and food purveyors

Cease buying whole plants and bulbs

Cease serving and selling whole plants and bulbs.

Use sustainably harvested leaves only

Harvestors

Cease all commercial harvesting of whole plants

Harvest leaves only, not more than 20% in any year

Keep track of where you have harvested and when

Contact: Lawrence Davis-Hollander, 413.229.8316

He is an ethnobotanist, former director and founder of the Eastern Native Seed Conservancy, author of Tomato: A Fresh from the Vine Cookbook, and president of botanicalposters.com.